Skip to main content

360 Scrape pads 3D printed

My 360 Spider had scrape pads under the front bumper when I purchased the car. They appeared to be pretty standard, made of HDPE or some other soft plastic, and had suffered some abuse over the years. I wanted to replace them but I didn't want to just buy new ones. Instead, I chose to manufacture my own using Fusion 360 and a Prusa MK3S+.

Digitizing an existing part can be tricky, even with a 3D scanner. If the item is relatively flat, a simple method of digitizing uses finely lined (1/10") graph paper and a camera. Line the object up on the graph paper so it starts at an even measurement, and the take a picture directly from above, at a fair distance away from the object to reduce spherical aberration. In this case, the old scrape pad fit easily on one sheet,

Fusion 360 has a very nice feature for importing images to use in their system. Once imported, a simple scaling operation gives the height and width. Tracing the outline and holes is quite easily

The original scrape pad, origin unknown.



I wanted this version to be more than a piece of plastic by being easier to "scrape off" and in the process, absorb some of the energy of the whack into an object. This design used pyramids set in rows so that the top of the pyramid is the easiest to remove, and as the scrape goes deeper, gets progressively more resistant to gouging. Hopefully, this type of design will reduce the shock of the impact.

Here's the design as it appears in Fusion 360. The pyramids are set at about 60 degrees.


Since the scrape pads are to be considered sacrificial, they need to be easy to change. The existing pad design called for lock nuts and a washer. To reach them, the bottom pan has to be removed. Very complicated. To solve this issue, I 3D printed "Nut Keepers" that would capture the nut and keep it from turning. The nut keeper has "wings" and holes to allow it to be affixed with epoxy. 

Here's the "Nut Keeper".

The screws being used are Everbilt #10-24 stainless countersunk oval head phillips with hex lock nuts. I bought them from Home Depot.

To mount the nut keepers, they were installed without any adhesive, with a #10 washer under the nut keeper. This provided a small space between the nut keeper and the fender inner surface so that the glue could be applied with a syringe around the nut keeper, into the holes and slots in the "wings". This proved to be quite easy and low mess. I used a total of twenty CC's of epoxy gel (Gelmagic of course) to secure them.

Here's the scrape pad installed.

Here's a link to the model files (.stl).



















Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Bosch Throttle Body (Holder) Woes

My 360 started going into limp mode a while back. It was subtle at first, with it starting to lose power after 4,000 RPM's and then less subtle when it would barely go above idle. Limp mode protects the car when some vital part has malfunctioned. I know a master Ferrari tech that is nice enough to answer questions for me about the car. He lives more than five hundred miles away and it's like telemedicine.  The codes indicated a problem in the drive-by-wire circuit, likely culprit: One or more TB's or the accelerator potentiometer (AP), which is the foot pedal sensor.  I had a good code reader that could monitor the AP voltages (2) and they appeared to be within specification. That left the TB's, one or both. After a long discussion with the tech, his answer was to replace the throttle bodies (TB). The Ferrari 360 has two TB's. One for each bank of four cylinders. To the Ferrari mentality, replacement could only be with two new TB's: "Ferrari likes replacing...

Ferrari 360 Heat Exchanger Failure Analysis

I've been examining a failed heat exchanger sent in by a fellow Ferrari 360 owner and it appears that the problematic side is from the oil and not the coolant, at least in this case. Three leaks were detected by running water from a hose through the oil side. I used a set of banjo bolts (M16x1.5) purchased on Amazon for $13 to connect to the oil side. In addition, the HE oil side appeared to be literally packed with debris. I haven't analyzed it yet but it appears to be more than just oil mixes with coolant. I removed one of the tubes that had a leak by using a tapered reamer on a drill press. The tapered reamer would be self-centering so I wouldn't have to be concerned with being slightly off center, which would be an issue with straight bit. The stops were set at a very conservative place and when I reached the stop, progress was checked and if no sign of cut through, lower the stop a bit and repeat. Once cut through was detected, and that was pretty easy to see, the HE w...

Guide to Removal and Replacement of Heat Exchanger

Ferrari 360 Guide to Remove and Replace Heat Exchanger Lars K. Staack (aka lkstaack) 5/23/2021 Introduction 1. This is a first person account of removing and replacing the heat exchanger from a 2002 Ferrari 360 and is applicable to both the Modena and Spider models. I am a shade tree mechanic with decades of general experience, but only a month of Ferrari experience. This guide may assist a novice mechanic anticipate problems in advance, but expect to encounter issues that this guide does not address. Do not begin this procedure if that makes you uncomfortable. 2. This guide is for entertainment purposes only and is not intended to be official or definitive instructions. Performing these procedures introduces the possibility of personal injury and even death. This guide assumes that the mechanic is familiar with the proper use of personal safety equipment such as eye wear and gloves, safety equipment such as jack stands, and basic tools. I do not assume any responsibility for conse...